Mitigation
Radon Mitigation Systems
Radon mitigation involves a range of methods and techniques aimed at reducing the concentration of radon in buildings. The primary objective of these mitigation systems is to bring indoor radon levels down to a safe and acceptable level, typically below the EPAs recommended action threshold of 4 pCi/L (picocuries of radon per liter of air). In fact, a well-designed radon mitigation system can often achieve even lower year-round levels, often dipping below 2 pCi/L.
The choice of the most suitable radon mitigation system is influenced by the foundation type of the home. To determine the optimal mitigation approach, it is advisable to consult a licensed radon mitigation professional who can assess the situation and may conduct diagnostic tests to identify the best location for system installation.
Typically, radon mitigation systems incorporate a fan that continuously extracts air from the soil and expels it outdoors through a pipe. This pipe can be routed either inside or outside the home, ultimately venting above the roofline to ensure the radon is safely dispersed away from windows and openings. Additionally, the system includes measures to seal any cracks or openings in the foundation, reducing radon flow and enhancing the overall efficiency of the mitigation system.
Three of the most common types of radon mitigation systems
- Sub-slab suction - Pulls radon directly beneath the home foundation and vents it outside.
- Drain tile suction - Pipe penetrates into the drain tile and vents the soil gases outside. Covers are placed on the sump baskets.
- Sub-membrane - Used in crawl spaces, a plastic sheet covers exposed dirt on the floor, extends up onto the wall and is sealed. A radon pipe penetrates the plastic sheeting, pulls the soil gas from the crawl space, and vents it outside.
Radon mitigation system components
Radon fan is located in an unconditioned space, like an attic, garage, or outside to prevent radon leaking back into the home. The fan cannot be in or below a livable space. The fan is plugged into an electrical junction box or hard wired.
U-tube manometer is a device that visually indicates if the fan is working.
Radon system tag is placed on the system by a licensed radon professional once the system is complete and includes the installer name, phone number, install date and license number.
Active notification monitor alarms if the fan is not working properly.
Suction pit is dug below the basement floor where the radon pipe pulls radon directly beneath the home’s foundation and vents it outside.
Radon pipe is a PVC pipe that vents radon outside. It must be at least 10 feet above ground, 10 feet away from windows, openings, doors, openings to adjacent buildings (if the exhaust pipe(s) does not vent at least 2 feet above these openings), and above the edge of the roof.
Cost of a radon mitigation system
The cost can depend on many factors including the type of radon system to be installed and how your home was built. In general, costs can range from $1,500 to $3000. Financial assistance may be available to help pay for a radon mitigation system and depends on household income, geographic location, and funding availability.
Guide to radon mitigation process
Before mitigation
- Radon test reveals the home has a radon problem.
- Contact licensed radon mitigation professionals to request bids.
- Professional does a walk-through of the home to layout how to build the mitigation system.
- Review key questions with professional and request a proposal.
- Review bids and select a professional.
During mitigation
- Professional may perform diagnostic testing to ensure the proper fan size and correct installation.
- Professional seals cracks and openings in the basement.
- Professional installs the radon mitigation system.
Post mitigation
- Professional provides a full explanation of how the system operates to the homeowner.
- Retest the home to ensure the system has reduced radon levels.
Other key features of a radon mitigation system
- Radon reduction systems must be clearly labeled. This will avoid accidental changes to the system which could disrupt its function.
- A post-mitigation radon test should be done. Wait at least 24 hours after your new system has been operating to do this.
- Written operating and maintenance instructions and copies of any warranties should be provided.
- Most radon mitigation system installations require electrical work to power the radon fan which requires an electrical permit. If a contractor is doing the work, the person must be licensed
